Energy saving tips

Energy Saving Tips

Dehumidifier Tips

When purchasing a dehumidifier, customers should buy the largest capacity they can afford. And look for a model with a large water reservoir or a hose connection, and a separate on/off switch.
Energy Star models are assigned an energy factor in terms of litres per kilowatt-hour – the higher the number, the more efficient the dehumidifier.
Check the coils daily during cold weather to ensure they don’t ice up. Turn the machine off if they do.
Wash the tank with soap and water regularly.

Electrical Tips

Fluorescent bulbs can save 25 – 50% each over their lifetime. A single bulb can save from 25 to $45 over its life.
Using dimmer switches can lower energy usage by up to 50%.
Typically, homeowners use a large percentage of their electricity in the kitchen. Have a licensed electrician check electrical supply, panel, and wiring to determine whether the wiring is sufficient. Homeowners may find they need a new panel to accommodate the additional appliances and outlets.
When laying out lighting plans, it's smart to group lights on a few circuits. Plan for good task lighting above counters. Think about including dimmer switches. Energy can be wasted by putting all lights on one switch.
Look for light fixtures that can accommodate energy efficient bulbs. Some energy efficient bulbs are a bit larger than conventional incandescent bulbs.
Have all electrical work inspected and approved before applying drywall or any wall coverings.
If every household in North America switched to Energy Star light fixtures, it would save 70 billion kilowatt-hours and prevent 100 billion pounds of CO2 per year -- equivalent to removing 10 million cars from the road.
Many idle electronics – TVs, VCRs, DVD and CD players, cordless phones, microwaves – use energy even when switched off to keep display clocks lit and memory chips and remote controls working. Nationally, these energy “vampires” account for 5 per cent of household electricity use and cost consumers more than $5 billion annually. Consider plugging these appliances into a power strip with a switch.
“Sleep” features that power down home office equipment and other electronic devices that are turned on but not in use can save households up to $70 annually. Back to top of page

Entrance System Tips

Longer screws driven through the jamb at the upper hinge plate into the wall stud can help a sagging door. Replacing the hinges or shimming out the lower hinge with one or more thicknesses of playing cards can also help.
When replacing patio doors, hinged doors have a better track record of weather stripping holding up better.
A steel or fiberglass door with a polyurethane core and no glass insert can have an R-factor of up to three times that of a solid wood door. All new doors should be well weather-stripped.
A new storm door will have a quick payback period if it costs no more than $200 and is used over an older door. Back to top of page

Forced-Air Tips

A technician should inspect the furnace heat exchanger and chimney for cracks that might allow carbon monoxide into the home.
Furnace filters should be checked every month (and cleaned or replaced) while in operation.
Vacuum registers and remove them for cleaning if necessary.
Have the ducts cleaned.
Inspect the ductwork for leaks at seams, transitions and other joints. Seal small leaks with foil tape.
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General Cooling Tips

Take advantage of natural cooling from open windows.
Use window or whole-house fans with timers (see cost comparison below). Also consider attic and ceiling fans.

TYPE OF COOLING	COST TO BUY	COST TO RUN
Whole-House Fan	$150 - $350	1 -5 cents/hr
Window AC	$250 - $750	17 cents/hr
Central AC	$2000 - $4000	20 cents/hr

Close doors and windows by day.
Wait until evening to run the dishwasher, washing machine and dryer (or better yet, use a clothesline).
Switch to compact fluorescent lamps.
Landscaping can lower energy costs by planting trees and shrubs on the side of the home that gets the brunt of the western sun.
If a homeowner does opt for central AC, regular maintenance is critical for energy efficiency.
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General Heating Tips

Adding programmable thermostats can reduce a heating bill significantly. All that is required is a screwdriver, a drill and 10 minutes.
Once a year, homeowners should schedule checkups of their systems.
Clean or replace your furnace and air conditioner filters; old filters kill efficiency.
Space heaters save from heating a large area needlessly.
On most systems, homeowners can cut heating or cooling costs as much as 20% by lowering thermostats a few degrees during the night and day when nobody is home.
If purchasing new, look for furnaces with the Energy Star logo.
Consider radiant heating for supplemental heating.
An attached sunspace or sunroom can contribute warmth, particularly if the space has substantial masonry floors of stone, tile or cement.
Wood stoves will only be efficient and save costs if the stove has a high efficiency rating.
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Hot-Water System Tips

Have a technician check both cold and hot-system pressure to ensure the fill valve, the automatic air vents, and the expansion tank are working as they should.
Vacuum dust from baseboard fins.
Have a technician examine the boiler water pumps for leaks and lubricate the pump and motor if necessary.
Insulate hot-water pipes.
Insulate furnace pipes.
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Insulation, Roofing and Siding

Have a checklist for homeowners to complete their energy audit helps organize the information so they can evaluate in a single glance (see EnerGrade Insulation 1.1).
An easy test for leakages and airflow is with an incense stick.
Inspecting rooms: It’s not always easy for homeowners to determine what kind of insulation is in their home. One tip is to find an outlet on an exterior wall, and turn off the circuit breaker or unscrew the fuse that powers it. Remove the cover plate and insert a thin wooden ruler through the insulation until it touches the outside wall. If the ruler goes all the way with no resistance, there is no insulation and the wall is a candidate for blown-in insulation.
There are three options for insulating exterior walls: the outside, the inside, or in the middle of the wall. Generally, insulating on the inside is the clear choice due to accessibility.
Inspecting the attic: keep an eye out for moisture, stains, mould and rotting wood. Attics can be insulated in either the floor or the ceiling. Fiberglass: roll back a batt to see how thick it is (or if the R-value is printed on it). Loose-fill: use the ruler test for thickness. Walls: you may have to cut a small entry hatch.
Inspecting the basement: if a basement wall is room temperature when you put your hand against it in the winter, there’s no need for additional insulation either between the floors or against the wall.
Check existing insulation for signs of mould or moisture, which could indicate a ventilation problem that should be dealt with while undertaking the insulation upgrades.
Vapour barriers can be an important part of insulation depending on the location (see EnerGrade Insulation 1.2).
Don’t forget to dress for handling insulation – long sleeved shirts, long pants, gloves, dust mask, safety goggles, and disposable coveralls.
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Oil Furnace Tips

Have a technician complete the following at least once per year:
Brush and vacuum the interior
Replace the nozzle
Clean the pump strainer
Replace the oil filter and its gasket
Check the pump pressure
Test the ignition transformer
Lubricate the burner motor
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Plumbing Tips

Insulating plumbing pipes can keep the hot water temperature from dropping up to 4° while running through the pipes.
The majority of homeowners have their water heater set too high, needlessly spending money and wasting energy on a water temperature they don’t need.
Washing clothes in cold water can save up to 90% of energy.
Using the dishwasher instead of washing dishes by hand can save up to 20 gallons of heated water a day.
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Windows

Always look for the Energy Star label on windows.
Open and close curtains and blinds to maximize sunlight and natural heating and cooling.
Portable fans are more efficient than air-conditioners.
Insulator kits are a cost-effective way to manage if you’re not ready to replace.
Existing windows can generally be made far more energy-efficient simply by weather stripping and adding storm windows.
If a sash lock has worked loose, remove it. Put a drop of glue on a few wooden matchsticks and put the matchsticks in the screw holes. When the glue has dried, break the matchsticks off, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of each screw, and drive the screws into the new holes.
If you have single-pane windows, you can add new storms for about one-third the price of replacing them with new energy-efficient units.
Adding a second or third pane insulates homes from leaks and noise.
If windows don’t have a LoE coating, homeowners can buy LoE film and place it on the glass for far less than the cost of replacing windows.
Skylights can provide additional sunlight and reduce electricity costs; however it is important they have LoE coatings as they may bring in unwanted solar heat in the summer and lose heat in the winter.
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